Bikepacking Tahoe National Forest: Hobart Mills to Sierraville Loop

I secretly hoped that the presumed National Forest Ranger (or, at least, some salaried government employee) in his pickup truck with, supposed, air condition and a cold drink in the middle console cupholder would stop and ask me if I wanted a ride.

I was about six and a half hours from my starting point in Tahoe National Forest, on a seven-mile-climb on Bear Valley Road in 100-degree temperatures, fully exposed to the saddle at 6,500 feet. As I had hoped, he slowly and respectfully passed me with so much effort as applying slight pressure to the gas pedal of his truck. Before long, he had disappeared around a corner further up the road. I guess I just had to do this myself.

This overnight adventure started at Hobart Mills, a former settlement and sight of a lumber mill in the early 20th century, about five miles north of Truckee. The first roughly eight miles were spent on the easy-flowing and well-maintained Commemorative Overland Emigrant Trail, running from Tahoe Donner Campground to Stampede Reservoir, winding through sagebrush and pine forest.

An easy start on well-groomed and maintained Emigrant Trail

Weaving through sagebrush and pine forest

I could have lingered at the reservoir for a while, the liquid expanse with a couple of boats puttering along on its surface, exuding a calm and serene atmosphere.

Serene rest stop at the end of the Commemorative Overland Emigrant Trail

Crystal-clear waters invited to linger for a bit

I moved along its eastern shore before disappearing into the forest again, cruising through Sardine and Jones Valley. Badenough Canyon Road first took me up to 6,500 feet before taking me back down to about 5,200 feet via a very rocky and rough dirt road that made me wish for a full-suspension mountain bike (as opposed to my Trek gravel bike).

Coming to a road fork at Jones Valley

View from one of the high points on day one towards Loyalton and Sierra Valley

Unexpectedly rocky and bumpy descent on Badenough Canyon Road towards Loyalton

The climb up Bear Valley Road was arduous, and the descent on the other side towards Sierraville was bumpy and plain hell for arms, wrists, and triceps. Old Truckee Road, running parallel to Hwy 89, brought me back onto pavement and into Sierraville, where I enjoyed the amenities (as well as a shower, a bed, and great food at adjacent Philosophers Cafe) at Sierra Hot Springs, just outside of town.

Arduous 7-mile-climb on Bear Valley Road

View from Cottonwood Creek Road towards Treasure Mountain and Henness Pass

Perfect spot to rest a tired body for the night

Sunset over Sierra Valley (from Sierra Hot Springs)

Early mornings are for climbing. After breakfast at The Farmhouse, an eleven-mile trek to 7,700 feet on wide and well-groomed National Forest Road #15 needed to be tackled. The shade from the 100-foot-tall pine trees and the cooler temperatures in the early morning made this less arduous of an endeavor than I had feared. Still, it took me over two hours until I reached the ridge, eagerly anticipating the downhill on the other side.

Ready to depart from Sierra Hot Springs

Inching up to Bonta Saddle at 7,700 feet

Refilling on water from Little Truckee River

Past Webber Lake, I moved east on Henness Pass Road, finally encountering other outdoor enthusiasts, mostly on ATVs, with their RVs parked in dirt lots next to the road.

I skirted past Independence Lake before some rolling hills, and a final descent on Old Fibreboard Road brought me back to the starting point.