Backpacking Ireland and Evelyn Lake Loop in Yosemite

I was more stumbling than taking controlled steps. It had been about thirty minutes ago when I left the PCT/JMT along Lyell Canyon, took a right at a Y junction in the trail, and made my way uphill on Ireland Lake Trail. The open views from the meadow canyon below had disappeared. I was now inching up on a well-maintained trail through a pine forest, beams of autumn sunlight piercing the foliage. I stopped briefly to tie the shoelaces of my hiking boots, resting my backpack stuffed with gear for an overnight in the backcountry on a nearby boulder.

As I straightened out my body, raising my torso from the crouched position, I felt a stinging pain, first in my temples, then seemingly all across my head. The byproduct of coming straight from sea level to over 9,000 feet. The high point at 10,500 feet, at this point, felt lightyears away. I knew I would get there. Eventually.

I arrived at Tuolumne Wilderness Center right at 8 a.m., opening time. The brisk morning temperatures in the low 40s surprised me, forcing me to put my down jacket on already. From the Dog Lake Trailhead parking lot, I made my way up Lyell Canyon on a section that is part of the John Muir and the Pacific Crest Trail (JMT/PCT). Lyell Canyon is a sub-alpine meadow following the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River. The highlights of the first few miles are a couple of river crossings and sturdy bridges, most notably Twin Bridges, only about one mile into the hike.

The beginning of the hike is on a (short) section of the Pacific Crest and John Muir Trail

Moving along Lyell Canyon for about seven miles, with Donohue Peak in the distance

Conditions were ideal for an autumn hike in the Yosemite backcountry: Sunny, with an oh-so-thin cloud layer preventing the sun from exerting its reduced power in early October. I puttered along Lyell Canyon for just over seven miles, taking in the views of the surrounding ridges and Donahue Peak in the distance to the south. The calming sound of the flowing river was never too far away, beckoning the weary hiker to dip their feet into the cold stream.

A handful of river/creek crossings early in the hike

Lunch break by the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River

Eventually, I left Lyell Canyon and headed uphill on Ireland Lake Trail. I started to feel the effects of the altitude, my steps not as confident as only a little while ago. I took breaks to catch my breath every 100 to 200 feet of elevation gain. It took me over two hours to reach the ridge line and high point at just over 10,500 feet, with sweeping views towards the Cathedral Range to the east.

A couple of animal sightings on the trip, here a curious chipmunk.

A deer disturbed by my footsteps inching up the trail towards the ridgeline.

The three-mile roundtrip side excursion to Ireland Lake had been a stretch to begin with. I was too exhausted, and it was already too late in the day for it. I continued west on Evelyn Lake Trail, passing a smaller lake to the south before entering a vast open meadow and spotting Evelyn Lake to my left, nestled in a small basin. The lake’s waters were crystal clear and bitterly cold. Little foam clusters had formed on the eastern shore of the lake, caused by constant agitation from the wind, brushing across the open meadow.

The slightly arduous climb on Ireland Creek Trail up to the high point at 10,500 feet.

The sun rising above the mountain range south of Evelyn Lake.

My campsite behind a group of trees, which only provided limited wind protection. Fletcher Peak in the distance.

I pitched my tent behind a small group of trees, hoping they would provide some protection should the wind pick up at night. Which it did, of course. For most of the night, the tent fly flapped violently, and the tent shook noticeably with every 30 to 40 mph wind gust, hitting the open meadow periodically. As soon as the sun had set, temperatures had plummeted to just above freezing. I had to wear almost all the clothing layers I brought to stay comfortably warm.

Early morning sunrays hitting the mountain peaks in the area

Shore of Evelyn Lake in evening sunlight

After a night with little sleep, I emerged from my tent shortly after dawn, desperately waiting for the sun to come up behind the ridge and provide warmth. Eventually, the sun appeared, painting the eastern faces of the surrounding peaks in yellow hues. I took my sweet time and went through my morning routine, preparing breakfast, breaking down camp, and spending a few calm minutes by the lake shore.

Departing from Evelyn Lake the following day and crossing over an unnamed creek feeding into the lake.

I continued west on the trail, knowing that the second day would mostly be downhill to complete the loop back to Tuolumne Meadows. It took me less than an hour to reach the site of Vogelsang High Sierra Camp (currently not in operation) and the adjacent Vogelsang Backpacker Camp. I chatted briefly with one member of a six-man backpacking group, themselves on a more extended backpacking trip, taking them from Tuolumne Meadows all the way to Yosemite Valley via Clouds Rest.

Descending down from Vogelsang on Rafferty Creek Trail. Fletcher Peak (center) and Vogelsang Peak (right).

Mostly a gentle gradient on the way back down to Tuolumne Meadows.

The thin cloud layer from the previous day had disappeared entirely, and the sun shone brightly in a clear blue sky. Rafferty Creek Trail took me north to Tuolumne Pass. From that point, it was a steady downhill back to the meadows, passing a handful of smaller lakes on the way, fed by the heavy snowmelt earlier in the year. A short four hours after I had left my campsite at Evelyn Lake, I was back at the parking lot with hurting feet but filled with awe from another trip to the Yosemite backcountry.